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Social Media's Influence On The Watch Industry: Artificial Popularity - Forbes

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At the 2019 SIHH industry conference, Audemars Piguet debuted the CODE 11.59 watch collection. The CODE 11.59 collection had been in the works for years, and was supposed to be the watchmaker’s biggest launch since the 1970s. In an effort to attract a newer, younger customer base, AP had eschewed traditional marketing. In the leadup to the conference, the watch was not given out to traditional media. Instead, AP went with a social media approach, and paid a number of influencers to promote their new line.

When the press and the public actually received the watch, it was a major disappointment. Horology press used words like “boring” and “bland,” not exactly the words you want to hear when you’re debuting a new luxury product. Worse yet was the damage to the brand’s reputation for honest marketing.

As it turns out, there had been a lot of hype leading up to the CODE 11.59. Driven by rave reviews from social media influencers, customers and collectors were dying to get their hands on one. When it came out that all of those rave reviews were paid for, while traditional press had not been given the opportunity for a review, people were understandably upset.

But this problem isn’t unique to Audemars Piguet. In fact, it’s been an issue for many watchmakers, and for the broader consumer market at large.

Technical Products, Unqualified Reviewers

Social media influencers, generally speaking, aren’t watch experts. For example, suppose a watchmaker pays a popular fashion YouTuber to promote one of their new watches. The fashion YouTuber probably knows a thing or two about how to dress. After all, they decided to make a fashion YouTube channel, so it’s something they’re already passionate about.

But just because they know whether or not a watch looks nice, or pairs well with a particular outfit, doesn’t mean they know the first thing about watches. Do they understand the history behind the brand? The function of the complications? The reliability of the movement? All of these are just as important as how the watch looks.

Horological media and real horology enthusiasts actually understand what makes a five figure watch worth five figures. If a few qualified people had gotten an early look at the CODE 11.59, Audemars Piguet could have avoided a fiasco.

No Transparency

Another problem with paid influencers is that they often don’t disclose that they’re paid. This is illegal in many countries, but enforcement is virtually nonexistent. No-one is actually going out and filing criminal complaints against YouTubers for failing to disclose their paid reviews.

This creates an artificial sense of popularity in a way that traditional marketing doesn’t. When you see a traditional ad, you know it’s advertising. Similarly, when you see a trusted horology reporter write a rave review, you know the watch is actually good. Unqualified, paid influencers blur the line between marketing and honest reporting, which increases popularity for watches that shouldn’t be so hard to get. If you’re wondering why it’s so hard to find a Rolex Submariner Hulk, Rolex Pepsi GMT, Stainless Steel Daytona, or Patek Aquanaut, this is part of the reason.

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December 27, 2020 at 03:57AM
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Social Media's Influence On The Watch Industry: Artificial Popularity - Forbes
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